Category: Home Painting

Home / Crown molding transforms ordinary rooms into spaces with visual appeal and character. This decorative trim creates a smooth transition between walls and ceilings while adding architectural interest. Many homeowners wonder about different styles and how to pick the right one for their space. Understanding the types of crown molding helps you make smart design choices. Each style offers unique benefits and works better in certain rooms. This guide covers five popular crown molding options and shows you exactly how to use them. What is Crown Molding? Crown molding is decorative trim installed where walls meet ceilings. Originally designed to hide gaps between building materials, it now serves as a key design element. This architectural detail draws the eye upward and makes rooms feel taller and more finished. Modern crown molding comes in various materials including wood, MDF, plaster, and polyurethane. The trim can be painted or stained to match your decor. Quality crown molding installation creates clean lines and adds value to your home. Is Crown Molding Out of Style? Crown molding remains a timeless design choice when selected properly. The key is choosing crown molding styles that match your home’s architecture. Traditional homes benefit from classic profiles while modern spaces look better with simpler designs. Current design trends favor crown molding in main living areas. Many new construction homes include this feature in kitchens, dining rooms, and living spaces. The trick is picking the right size and style for your specific room and ceiling height. Where Should You Install Crown Molding? Not every room needs crown molding, but certain spaces benefit greatly from this upgrade. Focus on areas where you entertain guests and spend the most time. These rooms create the biggest impact and return on investment. Best Rooms for Crown Molding Living Rooms: Crown molding adds elegance and draws attention to architectural features. Large living spaces can handle wider profiles while smaller rooms need simpler styles. Dining Rooms: Formal dining areas benefit from ornate crown molding designs. This space traditionally features more decorative elements and crown trim enhances the formal atmosphere. Kitchens: Kitchen cabinet crown molding creates a finished, custom look. Crown molding for kitchen cabinets bridges the gap between upper cabinets and ceilings for a built-in appearance. Master Bedrooms: Bedrooms can use crown molding to create a cozy, upscale feel. Choose simpler profiles that won’t overwhelm the relaxing atmosphere. Different Types of Crown Molding and Their Best Uses 1. Traditional Crown Molding Traditional crown molding features the classic S-curve profile that works in most homes. This versatile style includes gentle curves and sometimes a small bead detail at the base. The design complements both formal and casual decorating styles. Best Applications: Living rooms with standard 8-9 foot ceilings Dining rooms in traditional or transitional homes Bedrooms where you want subtle elegance Hallways to create visual continuity Traditional profiles come in various sizes from 3 inches to 8 inches tall. Smaller profiles work in compact rooms while larger ones suit spacious areas with higher ceilings. This style is easy to install and widely available at most home improvement stores. 2. Egg and Dart Crown Molding Egg and dart molding features repeating oval and arrow-shaped patterns inspired by ancient Greek architecture. This ornate style adds sophistication and works best in formal settings. The detailed pattern creates visual interest and historical charm. Best Applications: Formal dining rooms Home libraries or studies Victorian or Colonial-style homes Spaces with high ceilings over 10 feet Egg and dart patterns can be carved from wood, cast in plaster, or molded in polyurethane. Wood versions cost more but offer the most authentic look. This style requires careful installation to align the patterns at corners properly. 3. Dentil Crown Molding Dentil molding includes evenly spaced rectangular blocks along the bottom edge. This design element comes from Classical architecture and adds structured detail. The repeating block pattern creates rhythm and visual interest without being overly ornate. Best Applications: Colonial or Neoclassical homes Formal living rooms Kitchen cabinet crown molding applications Exterior trim on porches or dormers Dentil spacing varies from tight patterns with small blocks to wider spacing with larger elements. Consider your room size when choosing dentil proportions. Smaller dentils work in compact spaces while larger patterns suit bigger rooms. 4. Cove Crown Molding Cove molding features a simple curved profile that creates a gentle arc between walls and ceilings. This understated style works well in both traditional and contemporary spaces. The smooth curve adds softness without competing with other room elements. Best Applications: Modern or minimalist interiors Bedrooms and bathrooms Smaller rooms with lower ceilings Spaces where you want subtle definition Cove molding installation is straightforward since the simple profile hides minor imperfections. This style comes in various sizes and can be painted to match walls or ceilings. It’s an excellent choice for first-time crown molding installations. 5. Step Crown Molding Step molding features angular, geometric profiles instead of curves. This contemporary style includes distinct horizontal and vertical lines that create a modern appearance. Step profiles work well in houses with clean, linear design elements. Best Applications: Contemporary and modern homes Art Deco or mid-century modern spaces Rooms with geometric tile or architectural features Spaces with clean, minimal decoration Step molding comes in various configurations from simple two-step designs to complex multi-level profiles. The angular lines complement modern furniture and fixtures. This style requires precise installation since imperfections show more clearly than curved profiles. Crown Molding Materials and Finishes Wood Crown Molding Solid wood offers the most premium option with natural grain patterns and staining possibilities. Popular wood choices include pine, oak, maple, and cherry. Wood crown molding can be painted or stained to match other trim elements. MDF and Composite Materials Medium-density fiberboard (MDF) provides a cost-effective alternative to solid wood. This material takes paint well and won’t crack or split like wood. MDF works best in interior applications and must be painted since it cannot be stained. Polyurethane and Flex Molding Polyurethane molding offers durability and moisture resistance. Flex varieties

Home / Picking the right shade of blue paint for the outside of your house can quickly improve its curb appeal. Blue siding colors for homes look great with a lot of different architectural types and with natural materials like stone, brick, and wood. The best exterior blue paint colors range from deep navy tones to soft seaside tones that bring out its unique style. There aren’t many paint colors that are as versatile as blue. You can use it to change the color scheme of your current home or give the outside a full makeover. The right shade of blue for your home’s exterior relies on its style, the lighting, and the landscape around it. Dark blues can be dramatic, while light blues can be cool and soothing. Is Blue a Good Color for Exteriors? When it comes to style and functionality, blue exterior paint is one of the best options for residents. Shades of blue, unlike neutral grays or whites, add flair while still having a high resale value. Blue paint for the outside of a house looks great with red brick, natural stone, and wooden accents. The color blue makes people feel calm and safe, which makes it a great choice for the outside of your house. During the day, blue paint changes how it looks depending on the light. It looks darker in the darkness and brighter in the sun. This ability to change helps blue stay interesting to look at without being too much. Climate and Durability Considerations The weather where you live has a big effect on how blue outdoor paint colors last over time. Colors look 4 to 5 times brighter outside than they do in places with a lot of sunlight or high elevation. In the south, where the sun is strong, some blue colors may fade more quickly than others. In the north, where there is less direct sunlight, darker blues can keep their color without looking too much. Blue naturally goes well with ocean and sky tones, which is great for places near the coast. When choosing between light and dark choices, think about the weather in your area to get the most out of them. #1 // Needlepoint Navy by Sherwin Williams Needlepoint Navy offers the perfect balance between bold navy and subtle sophistication. With an LRV of 13, this color provides dramatic impact without appearing too dark or harsh. The undertones lean slightly warm, making it compatible with various exterior materials including brick, stone, and wood trim. This versatile navy works beautifully on both traditional and contemporary home styles. Pair it with crisp white trim for classic contrast, or choose warm off-white shades for a softer appearance. Needlepoint Navy particularly shines on homes with natural landscaping, as the color complements green foliage naturally. For architectural details, consider using lighter blue-gray shades as accent colors. This creates depth and visual interest while maintaining color harmony. The color performs well in various lighting conditions, appearing rich and sophisticated throughout different times of day. #2 // Hale Navy by Benjamin Moore Hale Navy stands as one of the most popular navy paint colors for good reason. This complex dark blue contains muted gray tones that prevent it from appearing flat or monotonous. Despite looking nearly black on paint chips, Hale Navy reveals its rich blue character when applied to exterior surfaces. The sophisticated blend works exceptionally well with copper accents, wood elements, and natural stone features. White trim creates stunning contrast that enhances architectural details. For front door options, consider warm colors like deep red or forest green to complement Hale Navy’s undertones. This color adapts beautifully to different architectural styles, from historic colonials to modern farmhouse designs. The muted quality ensures it won’t compete with landscaping or hardscaping elements while providing an elegant backdrop for your home’s features. #3 // Naval by Sherwin Williams For those seeking an even deeper navy option, Naval delivers dramatic sophistication with an LRV of only 4. This near-black navy contains subtle purple undertones that create stunning depth and richness. The color works particularly well with natural stone and plants featuring purple or burgundy tones. Naval’s intensity allows for bolder accent colors that might overpower lighter blues. Consider vibrant front door colors like chartreuse or coral for contemporary appeal. The dark base provides excellent contrast for highlighting architectural details in lighter colors. This color choice works best on homes with ample natural light or interesting architectural features that benefit from dramatic emphasis. The deep tone creates a striking backdrop that makes landscaping and accent colors appear more vibrant by comparison. #4 // James Hardie Evening Blue James Hardie’s Evening Blue comes factory-finished on their fiber cement siding, offering convenience and consistency. This dramatic navy brings instant sophistication to split-level homes and contemporary designs. The baked-in finish provides superior durability compared to field-applied paint options. Evening Blue pairs beautifully with copper and wood accents for rustic appeal, or with light gray and off-white combinations for sleek, modern aesthetics. The pre-finished option eliminates concerns about color matching and ensures even coverage across all siding pieces. Consider this option if you’re installing new siding and want guaranteed color consistency. The factory finish typically outlasts field-applied paint, making it an excellent long-term investment for your home’s exterior. #5 // Bravo Blue by Sherwin Williams Bravo Blue represents the lighter end of the blue spectrum while maintaining enough color intensity to create visual impact. This pastel tone works particularly well for coastal homes or properties where you want color without overwhelming the architecture. The light tone pairs beautifully with white trim for clean, crisp contrast. This airy blue gray option brings refreshing energy to traditional home styles while maintaining sophisticated appeal. The color works exceptionally well in bright, sunny climates where darker colors might appear too intense. Beach house aesthetics benefit greatly from this soft, welcoming shade. For accent colors, consider natural wood tones or soft gray options that complement rather than compete with the gentle blue base. This

Most homeowners never think about their ceiling as design space. They paint it white and forget about it. But your ceiling is actually the fifth wall of your room. Black ceiling paint can transform any space from boring to bold. It creates drama, hides flaws, and makes rooms feel more intimate. The question isn’t whether black ceilings look good. They do. The real question is when they work best for your specific space. Some rooms benefit greatly from dark ceilings and light walls, while others don’t. Let’s explore when black ceiling paint becomes the perfect choice for your home. Table of Contents If You Have High Ceilings but Want a Cozy Space High ceilings are beautiful but can make rooms feel cold and empty. Your space might feel like a museum instead of a comfortable home. Black ceiling paint solves this problem by visually lowering the ceiling height. It creates an intimate feeling without changing the actual room dimensions. Rooms with black ceilings feel warmer and more inviting. The dark color draws your eye up and then back down, creating a cocooning effect. This works especially well in bedrooms where you want to create a relaxing atmosphere. Benjamin Moore Midnight offers excellent coverage for high ceiling spaces. The deep color makes even 12-foot ceilings feel more proportional to the room below. You keep all your vertical space while gaining comfort and warmth. If You Want a Unique Design Element A black ceiling serves as a dramatic focal point in any room. It’s like hanging artwork above your head. This bold choice immediately makes your space stand out from typical white paint schemes. Your guests will notice the difference the moment they walk in. Open floor plans benefit greatly from black ceiling design. You can paint just one section black to define different areas. This creates visual boundaries without adding walls or furniture. The basement ceiling painted black works particularly well for entertainment spaces. Black and white color schemes never go out of style. They’re timeless and work with any decor. You can change your furniture, artwork, and accessories while keeping the striking ceiling as your constant design anchor. If Your Space Has Geometric Designs Coffered ceilings, crown molding, and exposed beams look amazing with black paint. The dark color makes architectural details pop by creating strong contrast. White beams against a black ceiling create stunning visual interest. Each design element becomes more noticeable and impressive. Cathedral ceilings and barrel-vault designs also benefit from black treatment. The paint emphasizes the unique shape and draws attention to these special features. Your ceiling becomes an architectural statement instead of just empty space above. Black metal ceiling tiles work well in industrial-style homes. They complement exposed ductwork, brick walls, and concrete floors. The dark ceiling ties all these elements together for a cohesive design theme. If You’re Looking to Hide Ceiling Elements Stains, cracks, and surface imperfections disappear against black paint. Light colors highlight every flaw, but dark ceiling paint hides them completely. This is especially useful in older homes where ceiling repairs might be expensive or difficult. Exposed pipes, ductwork, and electrical conduits become invisible against black ceilings. This industrial look works perfectly in basements, garages, and commercial spaces. You save money by not boxing in these elements while creating a modern aesthetic. Black tile ceiling options also hide maintenance issues well. Water stains and discoloration that would show on white paint simply disappear. This makes black a practical choice for bathrooms and kitchens where moisture problems occur. Why Are Black Ceilings Appealing? Black is a neutral color that works with everything. It pairs beautifully with any wall color, furniture style, or decorative scheme. You can redecorate your entire room while keeping the black ceiling as your foundation. This flexibility makes it a smart long-term choice. The psychological effect of black ceilings creates intimacy and comfort. Your space feels more like a cozy retreat than an institutional building. This works especially well in the black ceiling bedroom where relaxation is the primary goal. Dark ceiling light walls combinations make rooms appear larger. The walls seem to extend infinitely while the ceiling provides a defined boundary. This optical illusion works particularly well in smaller spaces where you want to maximize the feeling of openness. Choosing the Right Black Paint Color Not all blacks are the same. Some have blue or green undertones, while others feel warmer with hints of brown. Choosing the best black paint for ceiling use depends on the mood you want. Popular options include: Benjamin Moore Midnight (2131-20): A deep, rich black that feels modern. Benjamin Moore Black (2132-10): A true, classic black. Sherwin-Williams Caviar (SW6990): A soft black with subtle warmth. For bedrooms, matte or flat finishes help create a restful vibe and hide imperfections. In smaller bathrooms, satin or semi-gloss reflects more light, making the black ceiling bathroom feel less heavy. Glossy finishes reflect light dramatically, but they also highlight flaws. Use them only if your ceiling surface is perfectly smooth. Room-Specific Considerations Black ceiling bathroom designs create spa-like atmospheres. The dark color makes white fixtures and chrome accents pop beautifully. Just ensure you have adequate ventilation and lighting to prevent the space from feeling too dark. Basement spaces naturally have lower ceilings and limited natural light. Black ceiling paint works perfectly here because it embraces the cozy, den-like feeling instead of fighting it. Add warm lighting and the space becomes an intimate retreat. Living rooms with black ceilings need careful lighting planning. Table lamps, floor lamps, and accent lighting become more important than overhead fixtures. The dark ceiling absorbs light, so you need multiple light sources to maintain comfort. Lighting Strategies for Black Ceilings Recessed lights work beautifully in black ceilings because they create dramatic pools of light. The fixtures almost disappear into the dark paint, leaving only the light effect visible. This creates a clean, modern look without visible hardware. Pendant lights and chandeliers become stunning focal points against black backgrounds. The contrast makes decorative fixtures

You just painted your bedroom, and the walls look great. You might be wondering if it is safe to sleep in a freshly painted room tonight. After a paint job, every homeowner thinks about this question. The fumes from paint can be bad for your health, but it all depends on how long you breathe them in. In short, it all relies on a lot of things. The kind of paint is important. It matters how well your place is ventilated. In general, paint with fewer VOCs is better than paint with oil. What Are Paint Fumes and Why Are They Bad for You? Paint fumes are made up of organics with high vapor pressure, which is short for “volatile organic compounds.” The EPA has said that breathing in such fumes is not a small thing and that it might cause major health consequences. People often have problems while they are around them, such as: Headaches and dizziness Nausea and fatigue Eye, nose, and throat irritation Trouble breathing Skin irritations Long-term exposure to paint fumes can hurt your central nervous system. Some people have trouble remembering things or focusing. People with asthma, respiratory problems, or who are pregnant or have children are more likely to have health problems from being around it. In general, water-based paints have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. But breathing in any amount of a low-VOC substance in a room that isn’t well-ventilated can be bad for your health. Can You Die From Sleeping in a Freshly Painted Room? The short answer is: death from sleeping in a freshly painted room is extremely rare in normal circumstances. However, it is theoretically possible in severe cases of prolonged exposure to toxic paint fumes in poorly ventilated spaces. Most modern paints, especially water-based and low-VOC options, are not lethal. The real danger comes from: High-Risk Scenarios: Using oil-based paints in completely sealed, small spaces Sleeping in a room immediately after painting with no ventilation Extended exposure over several days without fresh air Pre-existing severe respiratory conditions combined with heavy fume exposure What Really Happens: Heavy VOC exposure can lead to serious breathing problems, chemical pneumonia, or even loss of consciousness in the worst cases. These situations need medical help right away, but they can be avoided with good ventilation. Historical Cases: There are cases of people getting very sick from industrial paint fumes or spray painting in small areas. But painting deaths in homes are very uncommon and usually happen for strange reasons, like when someone intentionally inhales paint, or there is no airflow at all. Even though death is very rare, you should still be worried about your health. If you follow the rules for good ventilation and wait the right amount of time before going to sleep in a painted room, you’ll be safe. Headaches and feeling sick should be enough to get you out of there before something bad happens. Types of Paint and Their Safety Levels Water-Based Paints Water-based paints are what most people use to paint their homes today. These paints normally dry faster and give out fewer fumes that contain the same number of dangerous ingredients. You can often sleep in the room the next day if it has excellent air flow. Low-VOC and Zero-VOC Paints These kinds of paints contain very few or no volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in them. They are the safest to use inside, especially in bedrooms. A lot of people can actually sleep in their bedrooms after applying a low-VOC or zero-VOC product that day. Oil-Based Paints Oil-based paints take a lot longer to dry, and the fumes can last for days or even weeks after you use them. People don’t use oil-based paints on walls inside anymore because they’re worried about safety. The type of paint will also affect how long it takes to dry. It may feel dry in 2 to 4 hours, but it will take at least 24 to 48 hours for water-based paints to fully cure. Vulnerable Populations at Higher Risk Some populations are at risk from paint fumes, including Children and infants: As developing entities, exposure to these chemicals can be particularly harmful. Wait at least 48-72 hours before allowing kids to sleep in newly painted rooms. Pregnant women: Exposure to VOCs during pregnancy can impact fetal development. Pregnant women should not sleep in a room with new paint for several days. Individuals with respiratory diseases: If an individual has asthma, COPD, or allergies, they may experience severe reactions to paint fumes. Older adults often have less robust immune systems, making them potentially more susceptible to chemical irritants. Pet Safety: Dogs and cats are at risk as well to paint fumes. Keep pets out of new paint contexts until odours are completely gone. How Long After Painting Can You Sleep in a Room? The waiting time depends on several factors: Paint Type Timeline Zero-VOC Paint: Same day with good ventilation Low-VOC Paint: 8-24 hours Standard Latex Paint: 24-48 hours Oil-Based Paint: 3-7 days minimum Room Size and Ventilation Smaller rooms trap fumes longer than larger spaces. Poor ventilation extends the waiting period significantly. Always keep windows open and use fans to circulate fresh air. Climate Factors Hot, humid weather slows paint drying. Cold temperatures also extend curing times. Dry climates help paints dry faster, but you still need adequate ventilation. The Smell Test If you can smell paint fumes, it’s not safe to sleep in the room. Your nose is a good indicator of air quality. Wait until the room smells normal again. Signs It’s Too Soon to Sleep in a Painted Room Watch for these warning signs: Strong paint odor remains You feel dizzy or nauseous in the room Your eyes water or burn You experience breathing difficulties The paint still feels tacky to touch Protect Yourself After Painting With These Precautions Maximize Airflow In the painted area, open all the windows you can reach. Place box fans in the windows to draw in fresh air and push stale

Home / Painting stripes transforms any room from plain to stunning in just one weekend. Vertical stripes make your ceiling look higher, while horizontal stripes make narrow rooms feel wider. Many homeowners avoid this project because they worry about crooked lines or paint bleeding under tape. Learning how to paint stripes on a wall isn’t as hard as it seems. With the right tools, proper technique, and patience, you can create perfectly straight stripes that rival professional work. This guide covers everything from planning your design to achieving crisp, clean lines that won’t bleed. How to Paint Perfectly Straight Stripes on Your Wall Creating straight paint lines requires careful planning and the right approach. The key to success lies in proper preparation and using proven techniques that prevent common mistakes. Professional painters use specific methods to ensure clean, sharp edges every time. Essential Tools and Materials You’ll Need Before starting your striped accent wall project, gather these supplies: Basic Tools: High-quality painter’s tape or Frog Tape 4-inch paint roller with covers 2.5-inch angled brush Level tool or laser level Tape measure Pencil Drop cloths Paint trays Paint and Prep Materials: Base color paint (usually the lighter shade) Stripe color paint Primer (if needed) Clear caulk Sandpaper (120-grit) Clean rags Plastic sheeting Pro tip: Invest in quality tape. Cheap tape often causes paint bleeding, ruining your hard work. Step 1: Plan Your Stripe Design Start by deciding on your stripe pattern. Measure your wall carefully to determine the best stripe width and spacing. For vertical stripes: Measure wall width and divide by your desired number of stripes. Standard stripe widths range from 4 to 12 inches. For horizontal stripes: Measure wall height and divide by the number of stripes you want. Consider these design principles: Odd numbers of stripes often look more balanced Wider stripes work better in large rooms Narrow stripes suit smaller spaces Keep stripe widths consistent throughout the room Step 2: Prep the Wall Proper wall preparation ensures your paint adheres well and looks smooth. Remove all furniture and wall hangings from the area. Cover floors with drop cloths to protect from paint spills. Clean your walls with warm water and a damp cloth. Let them dry completely before proceeding. Fill any holes or cracks with a spackling compound. Once dry, sand smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. Wipe away all dust with a clean rag. If your walls haven’t been painted recently or you’re going from dark to light colors, apply a coat of high-quality primer. This step is crucial for achieving even color coverage. Step 3: Paint the Base Color Your base color should typically be the lighter of your two chosen colors. This makes measuring and taping easier while providing better coverage for your stripe color. Apply the base color using standard painting techniques. Cut in edges with your angled brush, then use a roller for the main wall area. Most walls need two coats for even coverage. Allow each coat to dry completely according to the paint manufacturer’s instructions. Wait at least 24 hours before moving to the taping stage. Rushing this step can damage your fresh paint when applying tape. Step 4: Draw and Tape the Stripes This step requires patience and precision. Take your time to ensure perfectly straight lines. Mark your stripe locations with light pencil marks. Use your level to draw straight lines across the entire wall. Pro technique: A laser level eliminates the need for pencil lines and ensures perfect accuracy. Apply your painter’s tape along the pencil lines. Press firmly along all edges using your fingernail or a putty knife. This prevents paint from seeping under the tape. Secret technique for crisp lines: Apply a thin bead of clear caulk along the tape edge. Smooth it with a damp finger. This seals any gaps between tape and wall, preventing paint bleeding. Step 5: Paint the Stripes Now comes the exciting part – creating your stripe pattern. Critical step: Before applying your stripe color, paint a thin coat of your base color over the tape edges. This seals any microscopic gaps and guarantees crisp lines. Let this sealing coat dry completely, then apply your stripe color. Use smooth, even strokes with your roller. Work from top to bottom for vertical stripes, maintaining consistent pressure. Two thin coats usually provide better coverage than one thick coat. Thick paint is more likely to bleed under tape edges. Step 6: Apply Second Coat Once your first stripe coat is dry, apply the second coat following the same technique. Work systematically to ensure even coverage across all stripes. Pay special attention to areas where you might have missed spots during the first coat. Step 7: Remove the Tape Timing is crucial for this final step. Remove tape while the final coat is still slightly wet but not dripping. Pull tape at a 45-degree angle, working slowly and steadily. This prevents paint from peeling off with the tape. If you notice any imperfections, touch them up with a small artist’s brush once the paint is completely dry. How to Paint Horizontal Stripes on a Wall Painting horizontal stripes follows the same basic process but requires different planning considerations. Horizontal stripes work well in narrow hallways, making them appear wider. They also suit rooms with high ceilings, helping create a more intimate feel. Key differences for horizontal stripes: Measure wall height instead of width Use a longer level for accuracy Work more carefully around electrical outlets Consider ceiling height when choosing stripe width The taping and painting process remains identical. Focus extra attention on keeping your horizontal lines perfectly level, as crooked horizontal lines are more noticeable than slightly off vertical ones. Advanced Techniques for Professional Results Dealing with Textured Walls Textured walls present unique challenges for painting stripes. The texture can prevent tape from sealing properly, leading to paint bleeding. Press tape down extra firmly on textured surfaces. Consider using a putty knife to ensure good contact with all surface irregularities. The caulk sealing technique

Painting an accent wall is an easy and cost-effective way to transform any room. Whether you want to add a pop of color to your living room or create a focal point in your bedroom, learning how to paint an accent wall can make a huge difference in your space. With the right materials, preparation, and steps, you can achieve a stunning look that enhances your home’s atmosphere. In this guide, we’ll walk you through the process of choosing the right wall, selecting paint colors, preparing your space, and applying the paint for flawless results. By the end of this article, you’ll have all the knowledge you need to confidently paint an accent wall in your own home. Choosing the Right Paint Color The first step in creating an eye-catching accent wall is selecting the perfect color. Your accent wall should complement the overall color scheme of the room, while making a bold statement. Many people choose dark color shades like navy, charcoal, or urbane bronze accent walls for dramatic effect. These tones work especially well in living rooms, bedrooms, and dining areas. To help you choose, consider these tips: 60-30-10 Rule: This popular color rule divides the room into three parts 60% of the room should be your dominant color (walls and large furniture), 30% your secondary color (sofa or curtains), and 10% your accent color (the accent wall). Test Before You Commit: Once you’ve narrowed down your options, test a few paint samples on the wall. Observe them at different times of the day to see how the color changes with lighting. Gathering Materials and Tools You need the right gear before starting. Here’s what to buy: Paint Supplies: 1 gallon of accent wall paint ($30-$60) Primer if going from dark to light ($25-$35) 2-inch angled brush for edges ($8-$15) 9-inch roller with extension pole ($15-$25) Paint tray and liners ($10) Prep Materials: High-quality painter’s tape ($8-$12) Canvas drop cloths ($15-$30) Spackle and putty knife ($10) Sandpaper (120-grit) ($5) Cleaning supplies ($5) Total Cost: $130-$225 for DIY Professional painters charge $200-$400 for a single accent wall, depending on room size and prep work needed. Preparing the Wall for Painting Preparation takes up 80% of a professional paint job’s time because it delivers 100% of the quality. This is how we ensure your painting an accent wall project looks flawless. Advanced Preparation for a Perfect Finish Clear the Space: Move all furniture at least five feet away from the wall. Remove all wall fixtures, artwork, and covers from electrical outlets and light switches. Clean the Wall: Gently wash the surface with a solution of mild soap and water. Dirt and dust prevent the paint from sticking properly. Let the wall dry completely. Repair Imperfections: Fill any nail holes or small cracks with lightweight spackling compound. Sand the area smooth with 120-grit sandpaper once dry. Wipe away the dust. The Primer Imperative: If you are making a dramatic change (light to dark color or vice versa), or if you patched any holes, you must spot-prime those repaired areas first. Primer ensures the finished paint has uniform coverage and sheen. Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint an Accent Wall Step 1: Apply Primer (Optional) If your wall is currently a light color and you’re switching to a dark color, applying a coat of primer will help the paint cover better. A primer also ensures that the final color looks vibrant and smooth. Step 2: Cut in Around Edges Start by using your angle sash brush to “cut in” around the edges of the wall. This means painting the corners and edges near the ceiling and trim. Make sure to follow the lines carefully to avoid smudging. Step 3: Paint the Wall Once the edges are done, use a roller to paint the rest of the wall. Apply the paint in a W pattern to ensure an even coat. For darker tones, you may need to apply two coats. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second. Step 4: Remove the Painter’s Tape After the final coat is dry to the touch, carefully remove the painter’s tape while the paint is still a little damp. If you wait too long, the tape might peel off the paint. Pull the tape at a 45-degree angle for a crisp line. Step 5: Touch-Up Once the paint is dry, inspect the wall for any missed spots or imperfections. Use a small brush to fix any areas that need extra attention. Practical Tips for a Seamless Painting Project Here are some additional tips for a successful accent wall painting project: Choose a feature wall: The best wall to paint as an accent wall is usually one that is already a natural focal point, like the wall with the fireplace or the wall behind your bed. Avoid too many accent walls: Too many accent walls can overwhelm the space. Stick to one or two accent walls per room for a balanced look. Consider lighting: The wall’s lighting can dramatically affect how the paint color looks. Make sure your chosen accent color looks good in both natural and artificial light. Experiment with textures: For a unique look, try adding textured paint to the accent wall, such as a metallic finish or using tape for stripes. Choose SD Custom Painting for Interior Painting Services in San Diego If you’re looking to take your accent wall to the next level, or if you prefer leaving the hard work to professionals, consider hiring San Diego Custom Painting for interior painting services in San Diego. Our experienced team can guide you through selecting the right colors and provide expert application for a flawless finish. Whether it’s a bold urbane bronze accent wall or a soothing hue for your accent wall bedroom, we’re here to help. Ready for the accent wall of your dreams without lifting a single brush? Call us today for a free, detailed quote! Conclusion: How to Paint an Accent Wall How to paint an accent wall

The difference between a paint job that lasts two years and one that lasts ten is how well you prepare the room. I’ve painted hundreds of homes in San Diego, and I’ve noticed that most DIY painting mistakes happen when people skip or speed the preliminary work. It saves you time, money, and the hassle of having to do your work over again if you learn how to prep a room for painting the right way. The truth is simple: it only takes a few hours to paint, but it takes a whole day or more to get ready. This is something that most homeowners don’t think about enough. A good prep job makes your paint stick better, appear smoother, and last for years on your walls. Let’s go over everything you need to accomplish step by step. What You’ll Need to Prep Your Room for Painting Having the right tools ready saves you multiple trips to the hardware store. Here’s what I keep in my prep kit: Cleaning Supplies: Bucket and warm water Grease-cutting dish soap (Dawn works great) Sponges and microfiber cloths Rubber gloves TSP cleaner for kitchens (optional but helpful) Repair Materials: Spackle or joint compound Putty knife (3-inch and 6-inch) 120-grit and 220-grit sandpaper Sanding block or pole sander Paintable latex caulk Caulk gun Protection Gear: Canvas drop cloths (not plastic, which gets slippery) Painter’s tape (FrogTape or 3M work best) Plastic sheeting for furniture Screwdriver set for outlet covers Primer and Application: Quality primer (I use Zinsser or Kilz) 2-inch angled brush 9-inch roller frame and covers Paint tray Cost Breakdown: Expect to spend $75-150 on prep materials for an average bedroom. This might seem high, but skipping these tools leads to poor results that cost more to fix later. How to Prepare a Room for Painting Step 1: Clear and Protect the Space Start by removing everything you can from the room. Pictures, curtains, and small furniture should go completely. For heavy furniture, move everything to the center and cover with plastic sheeting. Lay canvas drop cloths on the floor. Canvas absorbs drips better than plastic and won’t slip under your feet. Protect baseboards with painter’s tape if you’re not painting them. Pro Tip: Remove outlet covers, light switch plates, and HVAC vent covers. Put the screws back in the outlets so you don’t lose them. This takes 10 minutes but saves you 30 minutes of careful cutting around each fixture. Time Estimate: 30-45 minutes for a standard bedroom. Step 2: Inspect Your Walls for Damage Walk around with a bright LED work light held at an angle to the wall. This technique (called rake lighting) reveals every imperfection. Look for: Nail holes and dents Cracks in drywall or plaster Loose or peeling paint Water stains or discoloration Mold or mildew (common in bathrooms and basements) Mark problem spots with painter’s tape so you don’t miss them during repairs. Common Issue: Many homes built before 1978 have lead paint. If your paint is chipping and your home is older, get a $5 lead test kit from the hardware store before sanding. Lead dust is dangerous, especially for kids and pregnant women. Step 3: Clean Your Walls Thoroughly This step matters more than most people think. Paint won’t stick to greasy or dusty surfaces. Here’s how to clean different rooms: Regular Rooms (Bedrooms, Living Rooms): Mix warm water with a few drops of dish soap. Wipe walls with a damp sponge from top to bottom. Rinse with clean water and let dry for 2-3 hours. Kitchens: Kitchen walls collect grease film you can’t always see. Use a grease-cutting cleaner or mix 1/4 cup TSP with a gallon of warm water. Wear gloves because TSP is harsh. Scrub gently, rinse twice, and dry completely. Bathrooms: Check for mildew in corners and near the ceiling. Never paint over mildew. Mix 3 parts water to 1 part bleach, apply with a sponge, let sit for 5 minutes, scrub with a soft brush, and rinse well. Wear gloves and open windows for ventilation. Smoke Damage: If previous owners smoked, you’ll see yellow-brown stains. Regular cleaning won’t remove nicotine residue. Use a strong degreaser or TSP, then prime with a stain-blocking primer like Kilz or BIN shellac-based primer. Critical Rule: Walls must be completely dry before you paint. Painting damp walls causes blistering and peeling within weeks. Step 4: Repair Holes and Cracks Small nail holes need a lightweight spackle. Apply with a putty knife, overfill slightly, and let dry for 1-2 hours. Larger holes need multiple thin coats of joint compound. For cracks, use a putty knife to scrape out any loose material first. Fill with spackle or joint compound and smooth flat with the wall. Let each coat dry before adding more. Wood Trim Repairs: Use wood filler for baseboards and door frames. It’s different from spackle and designed for wood surfaces. Drywall Tips: Don’t pile on thick layers. Multiple thin coats work better. Let repairs dry overnight if possible. Rushing causes cracks. Slightly overfill holes because the compound shrinks as it dries. Step 5: Sand All Repaired Areas Once repairs are dry, sand them smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. The goal is making repairs invisible by feathering the edges into the surrounding wall. For previously painted glossy surfaces, lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper. This dulls the shine and gives new paint something to grip. You don’t need to remove old paint, just rough up the surface. Textured Walls: Skip sanding if your walls have knockdown or orange peel texture. You’ll damage the pattern. Wipe down sanded areas with a damp cloth to remove dust. Better yet, use a tack cloth (a sticky rag that grabs dust particles). Step 6: Caulk Gaps and Seams This step separates DIY jobs from professional results. Caulk the gaps where baseboards meet walls, around door frames, and along crown molding. Caulking Tips: Cut the caulk tube tip smaller than you think you need. You can always make it bigger. Apply smooth, continuous

Home / Painting trim transforms any room from ordinary to stunning. Fresh paint on baseboards, door frames, and window casings creates clean lines that make your walls pop. Whether you’re updating old molding or finishing new construction, the right approach makes all the difference. Learning how to paint trim properly saves time and delivers professional results. This guide covers everything from choosing the best paint to applying the final coat. You’ll discover techniques that prevent common mistakes and create smooth, durable finishes. Supply List for Painting Trim Getting the right supplies upfront prevents mid-project trips to the store. Here’s what you need for painting trim molding: Preparation Supplies: Drop cloths or plastic sheeting Painter’s tape (1.5-inch and 2-inch widths) Putty knife for repairs Spackling compound for holes and cracks Sandpaper (120-grit and 220-grit) Sanding sponge for detailed areas Tack cloth for dust removal Caulk and caulk gun Paint and Primer: High-quality primer (oil-based or high-adhesion latex) Semi-gloss or satin paint for trim Benjamin Moore paint for trim offers excellent durability and coverage Tools: Angled brush (2-inch for most trim, 1-inch for detailed work) Mini roller and covers (4-inch) for wide baseboards Paint tray with liner Brush comb for cleaning Rags for cleanup Safety Equipment: Safety glasses Dust mask Rubber gloves Choose quality brushes for trim painting. Cheap brushes leave streaks and shed bristles into your paint. A good angled brush costs more but creates smoother finishes with fewer brush marks. How to Paint Trim The best way to paint trim follows a specific sequence. Each step builds on the previous one to create professional results. Rushing through preparation shows in the final finish. Prepare the Room Room preparation prevents paint splatters and makes cleanup easier. Start by removing furniture or covering it with plastic sheeting. Apply painter’s tape along walls where they meet the trim. Use a putty knife to press tape edges down firmly. This prevents paint from bleeding under the tape. For carpet, tuck tape between the baseboard and flooring using the putty knife blade. Lay drop cloths on floors, especially under areas you’ll be painting. Plastic works for temporary protection, but canvas drop cloths absorb spills better. They also stay in place without sliding around. Check your work area for adequate lighting. Poor lighting hides brush marks and uneven coverage until it’s too late to fix easily. Prepare the Trim Clean trim removes dirt and grease that prevent paint adhesion. Use a damp cloth with mild soap for most cleaning. Kitchen trim may need degreasing cleaner to remove cooking residue. Fill holes and cracks with spackling compounds. Push the compound into holes using a putty knife, then scrape excess flush with the surface. Let it dry completely before sanding. Sand all trim surfaces lightly with 120-grit sandpaper. This creates texture for better paint adhesion. For previously painted trim, focus on glossy areas that need dulling. Sand with the grain on wood trim to avoid cross-grain scratches. New trim needs special attention. Factory finishes often resist paint. Sand lightly with 220-grit paper to remove the sheen without creating deep scratches. Remove sanding dust with a tack cloth. Regular rags just push dust around. Tack cloths pick up fine particles that could create rough spots in your finish. Caulk gaps between trim and walls using paintable acrylic caulk. Apply steady pressure while moving the caulk gun along the joint. Smooth the bead with your finger dipped in water for clean lines. Prime the Trim Primer creates a uniform surface for paint adhesion. Skip primer and your paint may peel, especially on glossy surfaces or raw wood. Use oil-based primer for maximum adhesion on glossy surfaces. Water-based high-adhesion primers work well for most situations and clean up easier. Spot-prime knots and stains first, then prime the entire surface once dry. Apply primer with smooth, even strokes. Start with the detailed areas using an angled brush. Work primer into grooves and profiles completely. For wide, flat trim, use a mini roller for speed, then brush out roller marks. Don’t overload your brush. Dip only the bottom third of bristles into the primer. Tap excess off on the container rim rather than wiping on the edge, which removes too much primer. Allow the primer to dry according to manufacturer instructions. Most primers dry in 2-4 hours, but cure time affects paint adhesion. Wait the full recommended time before painting. Sand lightly between coats if the primer raises the wood grain. Use 220-grit paper with light pressure. Remove dust before applying paint. Paint the Trim Quality paint makes the biggest difference in your final results. Semi-gloss paint works best for most trim applications. It resists moisture and cleans easily without showing every fingerprint like high-gloss paint. Benjamin Moore Advance or similar high-quality paints level well and resist brush marks. These paints cost more but save time with better coverage and easier application. Load your brush properly for smooth application. Dip bristles about one-third into the paint. Gently tap the brush on the container sides to remove excess. Don’t wipe the brush on the rim, which removes too much paint. Start painting in less visible areas to warm up your technique. Apply paint in 2-3 foot sections using smooth strokes. Paint detailed areas first with the angled brush tip, then fill in flat surfaces. For wide baseboards, use a mini roller to apply paint quickly, then immediately brush out roller texture with light strokes. This technique combines speed with a smooth finish. Maintain a wet edge while painting. This means overlapping into wet paint as you work along the trim. Stopping and starting in the middle of a board creates lap marks that show in the final finish. Remove painter’s tape while the paint is still slightly wet. Pull tape at a 45-degree angle to prevent peeling. If paint has dried, score along the tape edge with a sharp knife before removing. Apply a second coat for full coverage and durability. Two thin coats look better and last longer than one thick coat.

Home / A brick fireplace can transform your living space from outdated to stunning with the right paint project. Many homeowners avoid this makeover because they think it’s too complex or permanent. The truth is that learning how to paint a brick fireplace is simpler than you might expect. Painting a brick fireplace gives you complete control over your room’s style. Whether you want a white painted brick fireplace for a modern look or bold colors for drama, this guide covers everything you need to know. We’ll walk through each step to ensure your painted brick fireplace ideas become reality. Should You Paint Your Fireplace? Painting your brick fireplace can completely change your room’s feel. A white brick fireplace creates a clean, timeless look that works with any decor style. Paint fireplace projects also cost much less than full renovations or stone replacements. However, painted brick requires more maintenance than natural brick. You’ll need to clean the brick surface regularly and touch up the paint every few years. Once you paint fireplace brick, removing the paint later requires significant effort and expense. Consider your long-term plans before starting. If you love the natural brick look, explore cleaning or staining options first. But if you’re ready for change, repainting brick fireplace surfaces offers endless design possibilities. What To Consider Before you paint a brick, examine your fireplace condition. Look for cracks, loose mortar, or damaged bricks that need repair. The face of the brick should be stable and clean for paint to adhere properly. Check your fireplace’s age and brick type. Older fireplaces may have lead paint that requires special removal procedures. Some brick types are more porous and need extra primer coats for even coverage. Consider your room’s lighting and size. Dark paint colors can make small rooms feel cramped, while light colors reflect more light. Think about how your fireplace paint choice will work with existing furniture and wall colors. Choosing the Right Paint Water based paints work best for brick fireplace projects. They allow the brick surface to breathe while providing excellent coverage and durability. Avoid oil-based paints on brick as they can trap moisture and cause problems. Look for high-quality acrylic latex paints designed for masonry surfaces. These paints resist heat better and maintain their color longer. Premium brands like Benjamin Moore’s Advance or Sherwin Williams ProClassic offer superior coverage and longevity. Consider the paint’s sheen level carefully. Flat or matte finishes hide imperfections in the brick but show dirt more easily. Eggshell or satin finishes clean easier but highlight surface texture. Semi-gloss works well in high-traffic areas but may look too shiny on large brick surfaces. Choosing a Color White brick remains the most popular choice for painted brick fireplaces. It brightens rooms, works with any decor style, and creates a classic look that won’t go out of style. Pure white, cream, and off-white shades all work well. Gray tones offer sophisticated alternatives to white painted brick fireplace designs. Light gray creates subtle elegance, while charcoal adds drama. Black paint creates bold focal points but works best in larger rooms with good lighting. Don’t overlook colorful options for your painted brick fireplace ideas. Deep blues, forest greens, or rich burgundy can create stunning focal points. Test color samples on a small brick section first to see how the porous surface affects the final color. Painted Fireplace Before and After A well-executed paint project transforms dated brick into a stunning focal point. Before photos typically show dark, outdated brick that makes rooms feel heavy and closed-in. After painting, the same fireplace becomes bright, fresh, and perfectly integrated with modern decor. White brick fireplaces particularly show dramatic transformations. The bright, clean surface reflects light throughout the room, making spaces feel larger and more open. Dark paint colors create equally impressive results by adding sophisticated drama to neutral rooms. Document your transformation with before and after photos. These images help you appreciate your hard work and can inspire future home improvement projects. Supplies You’ll Need Gather all materials before starting your paint fireplace project. You’ll need drop cloths, painter’s tape, plastic sheeting, and newspaper to protect surrounding areas. Invest in quality materials to ensure professional results. For surface preparation, get a stiff wire brush, vacuum cleaner, cleaning solution, and scrub brushes. TSP (trisodium phosphate) works well for deep cleaning, but test it on a hidden area first. Paint supplies include high-quality primer designed for masonry, your chosen paint, brushes, and rollers. Use angled brushes for detail work and roller to apply paint to larger areas. Get extension poles for high areas and small brushes for tight spaces around the face of the brick. How to Paint a Brick Fireplace Step 1: Prepare the Work Area Cover floors and furniture with drop cloths or plastic sheeting. Remove fireplace screens, tools, and decorations. Use painter’s tape to protect mantel edges, surrounding walls, and any areas you don’t want painted. Open windows for ventilation and turn off your HVAC system temporarily to prevent dust circulation. Good airflow helps paint dry properly and keeps fumes from building up. Step 2: Clean the Brick Surface Start with a wire brush to remove loose debris from mortar joints and brick surfaces. Pay special attention to corners and crevices where soot and dirt accumulate. Vacuum all loose material using a brush attachment. Mix cleaning solution according to package directions. Scrub the entire brick surface with a stiff brush, working the cleaner into all mortar lines. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow it to dry completely. This step is crucial for paint adhesion. Step 3: Make Necessary Repairs Fill cracks in mortar joints with appropriate filler. Smooth the surface and allow repairs to cure according to manufacturer instructions. Sand any rough spots smooth once dry. Check for loose or damaged bricks that need professional attention. Small chips can be filled and sanded, but major damage requires expert repair before painting. Step 4: Apply Primer Use a brush to apply primer to all mortar joints first.

Home / Painting a ceiling might seem scary, but it’s easier than you think. Many homeowners avoid this project because they worry about drips, neck pain, and uneven coverage. The truth is, learning how to paint a ceiling properly can transform any room and brighten your entire space. With the right tools and techniques, painting ceilings becomes a manageable weekend project. This guide covers everything from choosing the best tools for painting a ceiling to applying the final coat like a pro. What You Will Need to Paint a Ceiling Before you start painting ceilings, gather these essential supplies: Paint and Primers: Flat ceiling paint (white or your chosen color) High-quality primer for stained or dark surfaces Behr ceiling paint offers excellent coverage and durability Brushes and Rollers: 9-inch paint roller frame Roller covers with 1/2-inch nap for smooth ceilings 3/4-inch nap rollers for textured ceiling paint applications 2-inch angled brush for cutting corners Extension pole (4-8 feet adjustable) Preparation Materials: 2-inch painter’s tape (avoid 1-inch tape) Plastic or canvas drop cloths Paint tray with disposable liners Ladder or step stool Sandpaper (120-grit for minor imperfections) Safety Equipment: Safety glasses or goggles Hat or head covering Non-slip shoes Dust mask for sanding Cleaning Supplies: Vacuum with brush attachment Microfiber cloths Mild detergent Spackling compound for crack repairs Prep the Ceiling and Room for Painting Proper preparation determines your project’s success. Start by removing all furniture from the room or moving it to the center. Cover remaining items with drop cloths. Clean your ceiling thoroughly using a vacuum with a soft brush attachment. Pay special attention to corners where dust collects. For textured ceiling paint preparation, use gentle strokes to avoid damaging the texture. Check for cracks, holes, or water stains. Fill small cracks with spackling compounds and let dry completely. Sand any rough spots with 120-grit sandpaper. Water stains need primer before painting to prevent bleed-through. Turn off electricity to ceiling fixtures at the breaker box. Remove light fixtures and ceiling fans if possible. If removal isn’t practical, tape around them carefully with painter’s tape. Put Down Drop Cloths Quality drop cloths protect your floors and furniture from paint splatters. Canvas drop cloths work better than plastic because they absorb paint instead of spreading it around. Lay drop cloths with at least 12-inch overlaps. Tape them to baseboards so they stay in place while you work. Don’t skip this step – ceiling painting creates more drips than wall painting. For rooms with hardwood or tile floors, use canvas drop cloths. Plastic works fine over carpet but can be slippery. Consider using both: plastic under canvas for extra protection. Tape the Tops of the Walls Use 2-inch painter’s tape along the wall where it meets the ceiling. This width gives you enough protection when using a paint roller on ceiling surfaces. One-inch tape leaves walls vulnerable to roller marks. Press tape edges firmly to prevent paint seepage. Remove any air bubbles by running your finger along the edge. Quality tape costs more but saves time on touch-ups later. If you’re painting the entire room, paint the ceiling first or walls first? Always start with the ceiling. This prevents wall paint from getting on your fresh ceiling work. Prime the Ceiling and Cut the Corners Priming ensures even paint coverage and better adhesion. Use latex primer for most ceilings. Choose oil-based primer for water stains or smoke damage. Shellac-based primers work best for severe stains. Apply primer with the same technique you’ll use for paint. Start by cutting in corners and edges with your angled brush. Paint a 2-inch strip around the entire perimeter. Load your brush with primer but don’t overdo it. Too much primer creates drips. Work in sections and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. For textured ceilings, use a brush with firm bristles that can work into the texture. Take your time with corners – these areas show imperfections most clearly. Paint in Sections With a Roller Now comes the main event: using a paint roller on ceiling surfaces. The easiest way to paint a ceiling is working in 4-foot by 4-foot sections. This keeps your edges wet and prevents lap marks. Start in a corner and work away from the main light source. Roll in a “W” pattern first, then fill in with parallel strokes. This technique distributes paint evenly and reduces roller marks. Keep consistent pressure on the roller. Too much pressure creates streaks. Too little leaves thin coverage. Roll slowly to minimize spattering. Here are key ceiling painting tips for roller technique: Don’t roll directly overhead – work at an angle Overlap each section by 6 inches while the edge is still wet Reload your roller frequently for consistent coverage Vary your final stroke direction slightly to hide seams Use your extension pole for most of the work. This saves your neck and gives you better control than stretching from a ladder. Adjust the pole length as needed for comfort and reach. Add a Second Coat as Needed and Clean Up Most ceilings need two coats for complete coverage. Check your work once the first coat dries completely. Look for thin spots, streaks, or areas where the old color shows through. Apply the second coat using the same technique. Work quickly and maintain wet edges. The second coat usually goes on easier and covers more smoothly than the first. While the final coat dries, clean your tools. Wash rollers and brushes in warm soapy water immediately. Clean paint trays and store unused paint properly. Remove painter’s tape while the paint is slightly damp but not wet. Pull tape at a 45-degree angle for clean lines. Touch up any areas where tape pulled away paint. Reinstall light fixtures once paint is completely dry. Turn power back on at the breaker box and test all fixtures before finishing up. Tips for Painting a Ceiling These professional tips on painting a ceiling will help you achieve better results: Color and Paint Selection: White ceiling paint